Fashion Column: A return of goth

Posted on Nov 7 2014 - 11:21am by Alex Presley

Perhaps what comes to mind when we think of goth is badly mismatched, ill-fitting dark colored clothing. Marilyn Manson was the poster child for the goth movement in the ‘90s that lasted well into the early ‘00s. I think it is safe to say that he scares me, and I am not a fan of his aesthetic.

Fast forward to 2014. A new movement is on the loose. While the grunge revival has been on the rise for a while, I see a new trend is emerging that shows everything old really is new again.

I remember being in the seventh grade and begging my parents to let me paint my nails black, as the color was making its grand entrance as an acceptable nail color. Previously, “punks” and “goths” only wore it. After wearing my parents down – a year later – I was hooked.

To this day, even though I take an occasional break for a rich oxblood hue, black is always what I go back to. Maybe it’s due to the original feeling that the color was forbidden to me that makes me love it so much; maybe it’s that it matches everything I put on with a sleekness that nothing else can match.

The new goth revolution has taken many forms. Designers such as Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto have made the look called “Goth ninja” popular. The look is all about head-to-toe dark, monochromatic color schemes and skillful draping.

Another interesting new development is the “health goth” craze. This is an interesting concept, as it not only has to do with what you wear, since it is a lifestyle trend. Health goths can be seen sporting specifically monochromatic, all-black sportswear while working out. And, clearly, as the name states, health goths are incredibly concerned with working out.

An example of this is Rick Owens himself. Although some of his designs can be categorized into the goth ninja genre, Owens displays the typical health goth aesthetic and physique. His wardrobe is all-black, and he is cut. More high-fashion health goths may choose a more unique fabric for their workout attire, such as neoprene and leather, which come in handy when trying to maximize perspiration. A health goth’s music of choice is a mixture of trap music and heavy metal, as odd as that combination may be.

Alexander Wang’s new range for H&M that came out yesterday will also add fuel to the health goth fire. The affordability and chicness of these pieces is incredible. There is a multitude of variety in this collection, even though every look consists of primarily black or gray. There are boxing gloves, sports bras, gym bags and even yoga mats to make working out more fashionable. Perhaps the brilliant Mr. Wang predicted this trend and knew exactly when his range would be the most successful.

Call me crazy, but there is something outlandishly attractive about this trend. Who doesn’t feel a little bit more rebellious and more powerful when decked out in all-black?

I must throw out a disclaimer here and say I do not stand behind wearing a face mask to work out, which some more extreme health goths do. Maybe I’m just sick of the bright and obnoxious workout-wear that is rampant and exhausted. Or maybe I’m just looking to stylize the only aspect of my life that I haven’t thus far.

Another new goth trend is that of the street goth. Rapper A$AP Rocky has popularized the look and is partly responsible for bringing it more into the mainstream. A common trend among street goths is to replace some “A’s” with “V’s,” as A$AP Rocky does frequently with his name when referring to himself (A$AP Rocky= A$VP Rocky). This stylization likely originates from Black Scale, a clothing brand, who does this as well.

The aesthetic of a street goth is minimalistic and simple. The lines are clean, and the cuts are simple. The looks are usually all black, with some white to break it up. Pants underneath shorts, black snapbacks, sneakers and leather pants are staples in a street goth’s closet.

The new “goth” genres may be offbeat to some, but I think if you get past the label, they are quite interesting at the root. These styles all have a unique way of taking casual looks and making them more fashion-forward, sophisticated and smart. It sometimes takes an open mind to adapt to new styles, but in an ever-changing world, this is only necessary.